13 Apr 2010

How To Read A Fertilizer Label

Down To earth Multi-Purpose Fertilizer
A balanced, multi-purpose fertilizer

Every gardener has seen the three big numbers on the front of a fertilizer bag or box.

Most know what the numbers stand for (in order): Nitrogen – Phosphorus – Potassium, also known as N-P-K.

These ingredients are always listed in this same order.

The higher the number, the higher the water-soluble percentage of that ingredient in the fertilizer. For instance, Sulphate of Ammonia, rated at 21-0-0, is 21% soluble nitrogen. It contains no potassium or phosphorus.  On the other hand, something like SuperPhosphate, rated at 0-20-0 contains 20% phosphorus but no nitrogen or potassium.

Why should we care specifically about these three elements over all others? What exactly do they do?

  • Nitrogen promotes green growth above the soil.
  • Phosphorus promotes flowering, blooming, and root growth
  • Potassium promotes general vigor with compact, robust growth.

These attributes are sometimes learned by the memory aid, “Up, Down, All-Around.”

DON’T GARDEN BY THE NUMBERS

So do higher numbers equal better fertilizers?

No!

Healthy plants grow in healthy soil.

fertilizer burn
Fertilizer Burn

Soil amendments and fertilizers certainly play a role – sometimes the crucial role – in promoting plant growth. But highly soluble, super-concentrated ferilizers can actually harm plants, the soil, soil microbes, and the environment.

Fast release nitrogen can burn seedlings. You’ve probably seen plants with brown edges on their leaves. That can be a sign of fertilizer burn.

Further, highly soluable fertilizers wash through the soil quickly, leaving little or no nutrients behind for continued growth.

And finally, high concentrations of phosphorus run-off can pollute water and kill fish.

FERTILIZE TO MEET PLANT NEEDS

While N-P-K gets all the glory on the label, other ingredients, such as minerals and trace elements are just as important to the health of your plants. Use the Big Three numbers on the front of the bag as a guide.

Then turn the bag or box over and look at the rest of the ingredients. A long list of nothing but unpronouncable chemicals is unlikely to promote a healthy environment. On the other hand, trace minerals and other insoluble elements will bind with the organic matter in your soil. They are unlikely to wash out as quickly, and so may slowly release nutrients to your plants throughout the growing season.

FEED THE WHOLE GARDEN, NOT JUST THE PLANTS

compost worms
Nature's Perfect Gardeners

Soil rich in organic matter will also be rich in life – most clearly illustrated by the presence of earthworms. Burning, quick release fertilizers kill worms, leaving you with dead soil that demands constant re-fertilization. Compost and minerals, in contrast, provide food for the worms, who turn it into one of nature’s richest fertilizers: worm castings.

Organic fertilizers tend to have “lower numbers” than chemical fertilizers, in part because organics are less water soluble. And yet, that very fact gives them an edge in promoting sturdy, compact plants with deep roots – plants more able to resist insects and disease.

GOING ORGANIC

Do you have to be 100% organic to have a healthy garden? No, of course not.

But you’ll find that shifting your focus to organics will, over time, build healthier soil. As your soil improves, your plants will improve. You’ll be less tempted to reach for pesticides, and the beneficial insect population will be able to do its part in keeping insect damage down.

10 Mar 2010

In Praise of Lawns

rotary mower
A Quiet Push Mower

You might not expect it – but lawns are rife with controversy.

For many, mowing the lawn is a tedious chore. For others, the smell of freshly cut grass is the very essence of summer.

Some people think watering the lawn is a waste of a precious resource. Others can’t image allowing their lush, green turf to go dormant and brown.

Some homeowners douse the grass with weed and feed and keep the blades of grass golf course short. Others swear by slow release organic fertilizers and won’t consider a cut shorter than three inches.

TAKE THE GRASS POP QUIZ

  1. True or false – lawns are so suburban; xeriscapes are hip and urban.
  2. What looks better – bluegrass or rye grass?

Did you think there would be a correct answer? Sorry.

Aside from the generally accepted belief that grass is green, almost anything you say about lawns will engender a passionate argument from someone.

LAWN LOVERS TAKE HEART

Whatever your outlook, here are a few facts about lawns that may surprise you:

barefoot in the grass
Barefoot In the Grass
  • A well-cared-for lawns can significantly increase property values.
  • A 50-foot by 50-foot lawn produces enough oxygen for a family of four
  • Lawns cool the atmosphere.
  • Eight healthy front lawns have the cooling effect of 70 tons of air conditioning, which is enough for 16 average homes.
  • Grass converts carbon dioxide to oxygen, a process that helps clear the air.
  • Dense, healthy grass slows water runoff, removing contaminants, returning fresh, filtered water to the underground water supply

GREEN AND CLEAN

An organically maintained lawn is one of the best ways to care for the environment! You’ll trap greenhouse gases, remove contaminants from the water supply, and lower electricity consumption in the summer.

Here’s the secret to a healthy lawn: rich soil.

Really, there is no mystery to what keeps a lawn green – deep roots in soil rich in organic matter will produce healthy plants, whether those plants are thousands of blades of grass, a few tomato plants, or a dozen rose bushes.

Smothering your lawn in weed and feed kills the micro-organisms that build healthy soil. Dead, compact soil – without worms or other beneficial insects – must be forced, over and over, to push up new growth. The grass in such a lawn is always fragile and in danger of damage from rough use or disease.

girl in grass
A Young Girl Plays In A Field Of Grass

But a rich, aerated soil allows the roots to penetrate deeply.

The grass can take up nutrients slowly as minerals and organic matter break down. The soil holds water. The healthy top growth mirrors the vibrant life below the soil surface.

Healthy lawns invite us to kick off our shoes and walk barefoot through the grass. Kids can play, adults can just sit in the sun (or shade) and enjoy the day.

FIVE RULES FOR AN ORGANIC LAWN

1. The first rule of organic lawn care is the world is not divided into grass and weeds. Diversity is healthy. Monocultures are fragile. For instance, clover can be very beneficial when mixed with lawn seed. Clover returns nitrogen to the soil, and it can keep your lawn looking green and lush with minimal care. So don’t reach for the weed killer at the first hint of “weeds” in your grass.

2. The second rule is: pull the dandelions, don’t poison them. Dandelions are so persistent because their tap roots grow deep into the sub soil. If you dig the roots, instead of destroying the top growth, you’ll not only eventually get rid of your dandelions, you’ll aerate your soil.

3. The third rule of organics is the golden rule: add compost. Return nutrients and organic matter back to the soil. If you have a mulching mower, leave the grass clipping on the lawn to decompose. If you rake the clippings up, compost them and then spread the compost in the fall and spring.

4. The fourth rule is feed the roots, not just the tops. Don’t dump pounds and pounds of high nitrogen fertilizer on your grass. Yes, it may make it look greener, but it is a short-lived pleasure. The short top growth of a manicured lawn is mirrored below the soil, where the roots are shallow and thin. Use slow release minerals, like rock dust, greensand, bone meal, granite dust, and rock phosphate to feed the roots.  These minerals will last many seasons, building strong roots and healthy soil. Look for slow release, organic sources of nitrogen as well. If you need some instant gratification, an organic tea can do wonders for a lawn in need of a quick pick me up.

5. The fifth rule of organic lawn care is water deeply. Turning on your sprinklers for 15 minutes every day just wastes water. The water thrown into the air will evaporate more quickly.  The water on the ground will not have a chance to penetrate and may drift onto sidewalks and gutters. Instead, water early in the morning. Use low rise sprinklers. Monitor run off. Adjust your watering schedule according to the season. Use enough water to penetrate about 6 inches deep into the soil – but don’t water so much that the soil turns muddy and soft.

Barefoot in the Grass by saragoldsmith Photo released under Creative Commons License
Girl in Grass Field by Bill Liao Released under Creative Commons License

03 Mar 2010

Time to Renovate Your Turf

If you manage a commercial landscape, you know already know that spring is the time to renovate your turf.

You’ll soon see Plantscapes’ crews at work, aerating, reseeding, and fertilizing the grass around Puget Sound. (If you’d like a bid for your property, just contact Landscape Division Manager John Higgen at 206-623-7100)

However, many people do not realize that your home’s lawn will benefit from the same treatment – and you don’t need heavy equipment to do it.

As grass gets walked on, the soil underneath becomes compact. This makes it more difficult for the roots to take up nutrients and for water to soak deeply into the soil. Instead of burrowing down deeply, the grass’ roots stay shallow. Water runs off or evaporates.

Grass in this condition is more easily damaged and is more susceptible to disease. Fortunately, anyone can renovate their lawn over the course of a weekend.

aerating a lawn
A tool like this pulls plugs and aerates the lawn

You can buy a small, manual aerator for smaller lawns or rent a larger aerator for larger area.

The aerator will pull plugs from the soil, breaking up the compact, dense mass. You can leave the plugs on top of the lawn, where they will decompose and add organic matter back to your topsoil.

When the grass has been aerated, apply a good, organic fertilizer. You want to encourage root growth in the spring, so you don’t need a fertilizer high in nitrogen. Look for a well-balanced mix. If you have acidic soil (most people in Puget Sound do), add lime as well.

Overseed bare or thin patches with a good quality grass seed. Remeber, rye grass varieties do well in full sun. Fescues are better suited to shade. If your lawn doubles as a play area for kids, make sure your seed mix has grass that can stand up to foot traffic (i.e., more rye grass, less bluegrass).

Finally, add a topdressing of compost to your lawn to build the organic matter. Don’t lay this on so thickly that it smothers the grass. And do make sure that it is well rotted compost – you don’t want to burn tender shoots with a hot chicken manure!

If you follow this routine every spring and fall, you’ll have a lush green lawn that is thicker, requires less water, is resistant to disease – and yet requires less frequent mowing and watering.

They key is to always encourage strong root growth rather than to force weak top growth.

24 Feb 2010

Scenes from the Flower & Garden Show

The 2010 Flower and Garden Show is over.

If you had a chance to visit the show, you know how many amazing displays there were. The creativity is boundless. No one comes away without a thousand new ideas for their garden.

Now that you’ve seen the final product, we thought you might enjoy a behind the scenes look at how the WALP display came together this year.

BEFORE – BUILDING THE DISPLAY

walp 2010 flower & garden show display being built

the walp exhibit at the 2010 flower & garden show being built

the walp exhibit at the 2010 flower & garden show being built

THE WALP DISPLAY AT THE 2010 NORTHWEST FLOWER & GARDEN SHOW

the walp exhibit at the 2010 flower

the walp exhibit at the 2010 flower

the walp exhibit at the 2010 flower

17 Feb 2010

March Is Customer Appreciation Month at Plantscapes

bark mulch being delivered
Cheaper By the Yard

March signals the return of spring. Crocuses are blooming. Grass is growing. Trees are in bud. If you love nature, you can’t help but love spring.

Which is why we designated March as Customer Appreciation Month here at Plantscapes.

Even though we’ve had a very mild winter this year in the Puget Sound, your landscape is probably ready for a good, old fashioned “spring cleaning.” One of the most important steps you can take in getting your landscape ready for the new growing season is to renovate the mulch.

After a year of weathering, bark can get “worn out.” Some has been blown or tracked away. Weed seeds, litter, and insect egss may be lurking just below the surface. In short, the bark mulch can no longer do the job it is designed for.

A fresh layer of mulch not only re-invigorates the landscape, it adds a fresh, clean look to your beds and trees.

Until March 31, Plantscapes clients will receive 15% Off on any bark order.

This is a great way to kick off spring. If you are interested, just give us a call: 206-623-7100

Photo by jspatchwork Released under Creative Commons License.

03 Feb 2010

Time to Dormant Spray Your Fruit Trees

An apple orchard in winter
An apple orchard in winter

Mid-winter, while your fruit  trees are dormant, is the best time to start the fight against insects in the coming year.

Dormant Oil is one of natural gardening’s main weapons in the fight against insects and fungal disease on fruit trees. It works by smoothering spores and eggs in a coating of oil.  Most commercial dormant oil sprays are made from mineral oil, a highly refined form of petroleum. A special emulsifier allows the spray to be mixed with water.

Lime -Sulfur spray, which is an anti-fungal sprayed for dormant trees, burns eggs and fungus spores hidden in the bark. It is quite caustic and should be sprayed only on calm, dry days. Wear goggles and gloves when using lime-sulfur, and be sure to cover nearby evergreens or other non-dormant plants and shrubs that may be hit by drifting spray.

There are also special year-round oil sprays, usually labelled as “horticultural oil,” rather than dormant oil. These lighter oils may be applied to leaves, fruit and buds without damage. You must follow the label instructions exactly when calculating dilution rates. Even a highly refined superior oil can cause damage if the mix is too heavy.

Dormant sprays are usually considered organic. However, you shouldn’t confuse “organic” with “harmless.” The mist can be dangerous to breathe in high concentrations, and lime-sulfur in the eyes or on the skin can be extremely corrosive and damaging. Be sure to read the label, follow directions, and only use the sprays when there is no chance of wind or rain.

While dormant sprays are a great first step, they are not a cure all.

Spores and insect eggs can over-winter in fallen leaves and mulch under the trees. If you’ve experienced problems with bugs or disease in the previous growing season, it is extremely important that you clean up all debris around your plants, even going so far as to remove the old mulch and add fresh.

The work you do now, in the winter, will pay off in the summer. Your trees will be healthier; they may even yield more fruit; and you won’t have to use dangerous chemicals when you, your children and your pets are relaxing in the shade of your trees.

Photo by Max Used under Creative Commons License

18 Jan 2010

The Mow Town Mounties

Master Mechanic Victor Villafeurte and Landscape Division Manager John Higgen review the troops as Plantscapes prepares for spring.

landscape mowers being readied for spring

You may not have this many lawn mowers to care for, but take a tip from our mechanical genius Victor, and get your lawn care equipment ready now.

Clean, oil, and sharpen your mower’s blades. If you have a gas mower, give the motor a tune up – change the oil and replace the spark plug.

Then take out your hand tools and polish them up as well. Sharpen the blade on your shovels and spades. Oil your pruners and sharpen or replace the cutting blades.

You might be surprised at how much easier it is to care for your landscape if your care for your tools first.